My fascination for Central India's forests

As a high school student, in late 80s, I had a keen interest in geography, particularly the different states of India. One state that marvelled me, because of its size and the amount of forests it had, was Madhya Pradesh (MP). During one of those years, I accessed a full spread map of Madhya Pradesh tourism. I don't remember if it was of my father or I got it as a supplement in one of the national dialies. But, I remember going through it keenly and reading its notes on the state's different parks and sanctuaries.

In 1993-94, I bought a TTK book-map on India's wildlife, one of the best ever produced, to date. The book map showed the location of various PAs (protected areas) in MP. The map increased my curiosity of the state further, particularly the cluster of PAs at the junction of south-eastern MP (now Chattisgarh), northern Andhra Pradesh and eastern Maharashtra. The eastern part of MP had some parks that were greater than 1000 Sq. KM (Indravati & Sanjay NPs). Despite the best of my efforts, for the next few years I could not travel to that beautiful part of India, due to lack of financial resources as a student.

In 1996, I made my first trip north of Hubli and Bellary of Karnataka. I travelled to Delhi to attend a one-day seminar on 25 January, on wildlife, organised by Ministry of Environment and Forests (MoEF), Government of India. I could see the rich and beautiful forests of MP for the first time in my life, on the return train journey by the Bangalore-bound Karnataka express. I enjoyed these forests again, on my train journeys to Delhi in the next few years, in different seasons.
In April 2009, to report to my new job in WWF-India at Delhi, I drove from Bengaluru to Hyderabad and beyond to Nagpur. From Nagpur, I drove diagonally north-east to Bhopal. The journey was through the beautiful forests of the newly constituted Satpura Tiger Reserve. Beyond this, I drove through Narasinghad Sanctuary and up to Gwalior through Guna. But the lack of time meant I had to rush through these forests without breaking my journey (Read more here).

I made my first stop to actually see these forests when I visited Kanha National Park and Tiger Reserve to attend WWF-India's landscape coordinators meet in Oct 2009 (Read more here).

Though this completed me seeing much of Madhya Pradesh's forests, I still had not touched the present day Chattisgarh state. I did this, when I flew into Raipur with my colleagues from WWF-Netherlands on 7 Nov 2009. We drove, for three days, through Achanakmar Tiger Reserve (Read more here) and the corridors that connect Kanha Tiger Reserve to it. After that I drove from Kanha's Mukki gate to Kisli gate and then Khatia gate. From there I travelled south through Pench National Park (Madhya Pradesh) and then further south through Pench National Park (Maharashtra), on the drive from Seoni town to Nagpur City.


From the Delhi train-journey in Jan 1996 to the drive through Central India in Apr 2009 to this latest drive from Raipur to Achanakmar to Kanha and then to Nagpur, through the two Pench parks, is a long way for me. It completed my dream of seeing the beautiful forests of MP (well...almost, except for the Bastar and Bijapur districts of Chattisgarh and Panna park in north-east MP).

I thank God...I guess I am more learned now : )

Beyond the tiger show - the hidden treasures of central Chattisgarh

A quiet road running through Achanakmar Tiger Reserve in Central India's Chattisgarh state

The state of Chattisgarh was carved out of Madhya Pradesh a few years ago. The state is rich in forests and minerals. Though the state has been in news of late due to naxalism - organised political violence, the central and northern parts of the state still make for a safe destination for tourists. Inherting the tourist infrastructure of the Madhya Pradesh Government, Chattisgarh still has many pretty and picturesque rest houses amidst natural scenery.

The famous Kanha Tiger Reserve, in Madhya Pradesh, is not to be seen in isolation. For, it is connected with many other tiger reserves through forested corridors. These corridors are critical for the tigers of the whole of Central India's Satpura Maikal landscape (SML) as they allow the big cats to freely move and disperse to the more safe and prey-loaded parks. Among these tiger reserves is Achanakmar. The forests of Achanakmar and its corridors are pristine and mostly untouched by development. They accommodate the dispersing tigers of Kanha tiger reserve. WWF-India is doing some excellent work led by Shivaji Chavan, coordinator of WWF-India's Central Indian Satpuda - Maikal landscape (CISML).

We flew into Raipur, the capital of Chattisgarh state on early morning of 7 Nov and drove through Bilaspur to the southern part of Achanakmar Tiger Reserve. We halted at Amarkantak village, surrounded by dense forests on all side.

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Below are some pictures from the drive from Raipur to Amarkantak through Achanakmar Tiger Reserve.

A road block on the drive from Raipur city north to Bilaspur town. Chattisgarh is a new state and the infrastructure is being developed. The state's capital city Raipur doesn't reflect the hall marks of neighbouring state capitals like Bhopal. But with its rich minerals, it might well turn out to be a  city with good infrastructure in the next couple of decades, provided there is political will.

A hoarding inside Achanakmar Tiger Reserve. In the background is a human settlement. There are many villages inside the tiger reserve that are being relocated. Although none in the corridor are being done so.

A hoarding inside the tiger reserve

Farmland and a settlement inside the tiger reserve. There are many villages inside the tiger reserve that are being relocated. Although none in the corridor are being done so.

A langur in the forest

Fewer tourists means less feeding hands for these langurs. Hence, they are well behaved than their cousins in the better known parks across India.

When the jackals came calling in Kipling's Mowghli-land

Rudyard Kipling is said to have written 'The Jungle Book' based on his stay in India and his imagination of the Central Indian forests. His story 'Hunting-Song of the Seeonee Pack' is based on the jungles around Seoni town, that include Pench Tiger Reserve.

I visited the well-known Kanha Tiger Reserve in Central India from the 19 to 24 of this month to attend a WWF-India meeting and also to see our work there. Flying in to Jabalpur from Delhi on Monday, we drove through the beautiful forests of Satpura - Maikal landscape. The forests are of teak as one drives from Jabalpur on the highway to Raipur City (Chattisgarh), through Jabalpur and Mandla territorial divisions. The teak slowly gives way to sal as one crosses the Narmada River at Mandla Town. About 40 km south-east of Mandla is Kanha Tiger Reserve.

During the week we managed to get into the park a couple of times. Tourism here is very visible unlike many of the parks down south like Dandeli or Mudumalai. There are hordes of Maruti Gypsy vehicles lined up at the entrance to the park, as early as 5 AM, waiting for their chance to enter the forest. All seems organised and well-oiled until you meet this guy driving a Gypsy towards you and says where they saw a tiger a few minutes ago. Your driver races down the dirt track and as you near the site where the tiger was sighted, you see tens of Gypsies lined up along the road to catch a glimpse of the King. Hyper-excited kids, childish adults, awe-struck videshis...a wide spectrum of the audience awaits you, much of which is noisy.

As tourism is important to the economies of many small villages and towns around Kanha and since Kanha is one of 'The' places to see a wild tiger, the forest department is under tremendous pressure to cater to the needs of different sectors. Despite these factors, the forest department and the Government of Madhya Pradhes have done an excellent job in protecting Kanha and its wildlife. I guess some one up the chain needs to be firm and restrict the number of gypsies approaching a tiger. Till then it's literally a rat race, even in Kipling's Jungle Book country.

Near roof of the world: Panzi La

Penzi La or Pensi La, at 14,000 feet, is the highest point along the Kargil - Padum road in India's Jammu and Kashmir state. The word 'La' in Ladakhi language means pass.The pass is located close to Drang-drung glacier.

 

The scenic drive from Rangdum to Penzi La takes about an hour.

The route ascends up and one runs into many glaciers.

Buddhist prayer flags form the foreground to a panoramic vista of the landscape around Penzi La.

Cattle grazing amidst glaciers and snow-capped peaks around Penzi La.

Looking back at the road from Rangdum from Penzi La, surrounded by towering glaciers and barren mountain bases.

View of the Drang-drung glacier through the vehicle's wind shield.

Approaching the Drang-drung glacier.

Drang-drung is the most formidable of all the glaciers along the Kargil - Padum road journey. The melting ice feeds the Indus river that runs into Pakistan.

Rangdum, its landscape and wildlife

Rangdum is a small hamlet inhabited by a handful of Ladhaki families. The place lies along the Kargil - Padum road and is a favourite halting place for many who travel along the road. Located, as it is, near glaciers the temperatures are freezing at night even in summer. Access to the place by road is blocked in winter due to the snow.

A rock formation near Rangdum. The Himalayas are considered to be relatively young mountains. According to plate tectonics theory, they were formed by the clash of the Indo-Australian plate with the Eurasian plate.

Early morning view of the glaciers and peaks surrounding the Rangdum tourist bungalow

Rangdum offers sweeping views of the tall valleys and peaks.

The area around Rangdum thrives with wildlife. The area is rich in birdlife like this Horned Lark.

Among the many birds that breed in the meadows around Rangdum are the Yellowheaded wagtail.

The Longtailed Marmots are the most visible wildlife in the region. They bask in the sun early morning and late-evening and hide in burrows when approached. Hundreds of them adorn the landscape here.

The drive to glacier country

Green pastures besides the road to Parkachik village from Tangole village. Beyond Parkachik village, the road ascends steeply into glacier country.

Grazing in a sub-alpine meadow near Parkachik village. This is also the site of sub-alpine camping by Dept of Tourism, Jammu and Kashmir Government.

Rangri glacier originates below Nun peak and lies just besides the road. It melts into River Suru.

The steep, rugged road beyond Rangri glacier towards Rangdum.

Melting glaciers feed a stream of River Suru beyond Rangri glacier.

Beyond Shafat Glacier the valley gets wider and one can see sweeping views of the mountains.

A view of Shafat glacier.

Grazing horses besides the road on the drive up to Rangdum.

Along the way, the road passes through many beautiful sub-alpine meadows.

The road is narrow at many places and cuts through boulders.

Wide valley and tall cliffs along the road to Rangdum.

A signpost indicating the distance to Rangdum.

The sun sets over the tourist bungalow and huts at Rangdum

Beyond Paradise: Villages in Kargil Dist's upper Suru Valley

A handful of small villages and hamlets are located in the upper part of the Suru River valley. The Nun-Kun peaks over look much of Upper Suru valley and together with the many glaciers form a spectacular backdrop to these habitations - Tai Suru, Panikhar, Tangole and Parkachik among others.

Below are some images of the drive from Purtikchay to Tangole - the village that provides climbers access to Nun - Kun.

A gushing stream fed by snow-capped peaks (above).

The valley suddenly opens vast vistas at Purtikchay village (above).

From Purtichay the first clear view of the Nun-Kun peaks (above).

Nun-Kun peaks dominate the landscape in the Upper Suru valley (above).

A Government primary school amidst the Himalayas (above).

The landscape is simply spectacular and some of the views hit your sense very hard. These views are too hard to forget and hang-over of the trip lingers on in a visitor's mind for years. A barley field with the backdrop of Parkachik glacier seen in the above and below picture.

A glacier fed stream beyond Panikhar village, before it joins the Suru River (above).

Plantations besides road with the back drop of glaciers (above).

Villagers farming below glaciers along Panikhar - Tangole stretch of the road (above).

Panikhar village as seen from the Panikhar - Tangole road (above).

Upper Suru valley & Panikhar village as seen from the Panikhar - Tangole road (above).

The Nun-Kun massive as seen from the Panikhar - Tangole road (above).

Upper Suru valley & Panikhar village as seen from the Panikhar - Tangole road (above).

A wooden bridge over Suru River at Tangole village (above).

A view of glaciers feeding farmland around Tangole village (above).

A panoramic view of Upper Suru valley & villages of Panikhar and Tai Suru, as seen from the Tangole - Tai Suru road (above).

A panoramic view of Upper Suru valley & villages of Panikhar and Tai Suru, as seen from the Tangole - Tai Suru road (above).

Looking back at Parkachik Glacier along the Tangole - Tai Suru road (above).

Another panoramic view of Upper Suru valley & villages of Panikhar and Tai Suru, as seen from the Tangole - Tai Suru road (above). Beyond this is the Parkachik village and the views are of glaciers as one ascends to Rangdum beyond Parkachik.

The road south from Kargil town

There are two roads that lead away from Kargil as one enters this sleepy town from Srinagar via Drass. The one south-east leads to Leh and is a very popular one, with many people these days driving or riding from Leh to Srinagar or vice versa. There is another road that goes south and then turns east and south again. That road leads to Padum, an important town in Ladakh region.

Please see the region's google map here
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For most part of the drive south, the road is along the banks of Kargil River. The River Suru is a tributary of River Indus and dominates much of Kargil District's landscape. The road is not as winding as roads generally are in the mountains untill it turns east into the Upper parts of the Suru Valley. The soil is loose and it might have helped the authorities in building the roads easily. All along the river bank are a string of small hamlets, that extend till it gets very cold up in the mountains. The lower valleys are cultivated while the peaks are permanently capped with snow.

Please see images below of the drive from Kargil village till Khar Pokhar hamlet.

Drive from Zojilla Pass to Kargil Town

Friends,

I visited Kashmir Valley and Kargil district in Jammu and Kashmir state from July 6 - 11.

Below is the first series of pictures. These were taken during the drive from Zojilla Pass (where the Kashmir Valley ends) to Kargil town.

The landscape of Ladakh is totally different from that of Kashmir Valley. The drive below is through some spectacular landscape. The landscape is dotted with 'Bakarwals', the nomadic grazers of Kashmir, as well as picturesque villages with the backdrop of glaciers and snow capped peaks. Along the way one can also see Tiger Hill, which was scene of fierce war between two subcontinent neighbours in 1999.

The state of Jammu and Kashmir is vast and diverse. Even a week was not enough for me to capture the beauty of even its tiny part.

If you observe, I have captured the town of Kargil both under sunlight and moonlight. Hope you enjoy the images as much as I did taking them.

In conservation,
Ameen

Friends of Ranthambore

WWF-India has been working for quite a few years now with people around Ranthambore Tiger Reserve. It has been helping wean people of marginal communities from depending on forest resources. There have been many positive results with many villagers willing to walk with WWF-India to conserve Ranthambore's forests.

A large number of people enter Ranthambore National park every day, mainly for religious purposes.

Outside the park a large no: of people are dependant on it mainly for fuel wood. Seen here is a view in Dungri village, Khandar Tehsil, Sawai Madhopur District.

Camel carts on a road adjoining the park boundaries.

A women's self help group in Dungri village, Khandar Tehsil, Sawai Madhopur District. The group makes paper bags from used newspaper and sells it to newarby market. This way they save some money to use for domestic purpose. Earlier they used to cut fuelwood from forest and sell it to make money. Also, they are planning to buy subsidised LPG cooking stoves and cylinders with the money they make from the paper bags. Currently they use fuelwood for their fuel needs.

A beaming Guddi Yogi, a leading contributor to this self-help group proudly shows off her work.

Noori has been among the ones to encourage her fellow villagers to start the alternative livelihood.

A group of enthusiastic villagers at Dungri Village.

Lima Rosalind, has been heading the livelihood project of WWF-India in Sawai Madhopur District for a long time now. Here she is with Guddi Yogi, a self-help group member of Dungri Village.

A family that wants to shift to horticulture from agriculture to prevent crop depradation. WWF-India will be helping these villagers to fence their farm land till the trees are mature and can withstand crop raids by wild herbivores.

WWF-India staff inspecting a farmland whose owners are being helped.

The WWF-India team visiting the field. From left: Diwakar Sharma, Ameen Ahmed, Sukeerti, Pradeep Singh. In the back ground are the forests of Sawai Mansingh Wildlife Sanctuary.

With temperatures around 45 degree centigrade, an effective way to prevent sun stroke is to cover one self from head to toe and leave little for sun to directly sap the heat.

The 'Khush Haar' women's self help group at Falodi village in Sawai Madhopur District is doing excellent work again. These women were also earlier dependant on the forests of Ranthambore Tiger Reserve adjoining their village. Now they make cloth bags, small mats, table clothes, cushion covers and ropes which are marketed to tourists visiting Sawai Madhopur Town. Seen above is Begum, a leading member of the group.

Begum at work

Begum, proudly displaying fruits of her hard work.

Another product by the self-help group of Falodi village.